![]() For my purposes and type of wheeling I’ll be doing, I’ve decided I am fine with this clearance and overall I really like the Rusty’s skids a lot. I’m considering pulling it back off and grinding out a little better clearance for the exhaust pipe, but haven’t decided yet.įor folks with the steel oil pan who are especially concerned with every bit of clearance, this may not be a vialble option for you. The only other observation I would make is the engine/oil skid is very, very close to the front of the exhaust crossover on both sides of the skid (see pics below). ![]() Keep in mind I estimate I have lost a good 0.5“ to 1” of overall loss to height/lift just from the weight of my various mods alone (winch, grill guard, skids, rock sliders, etc.), and that of course factors into/contributes to the below:īefore Engine/Oil skid install clearance was approximately:ġ2.25” to lowest point of exhaust crossoverġ1“ to lowest point of skid band over exhaust crossover (so effectively true lowest point of exhaust crossover)Īfter Engine/Oil skid install clearance was approximately:ġ3.75” at front (highest point) of engine/oil skidġ3.25” at approximate location of former low point in oil pan (roughly middle of skid drain cover)ġ0.75” at lowest point of rear of skid covering exhaust crossoverīottom line, there is approximately 2.5” (without Fumoto valve) or 1.75” (with Fumoto valve) of lost clearance from this engine/oil skid if you have the steel oil pan vs the original aluminum oil pan. It is very solid, well coordinated, and looks great.Īs to the engine/oil skid and clearances we’ve been talking about in this thread, you definitely lose more with the stamped steel pan. Other than the above install fun (is there such a thing as a seamless mod install?), everything else went off without a hitch and I am very happy with Rusty’s skid package. I got creative and used a plumber’s tube wrench and just BARELY had enough clearance to tighten the nut with quite a bit of effort. It is a very tight squeeze around obstructions and my thinnest thin-walled socket was still too big. The last issue was the lock nut on the passenger side bracket mount. I had to slightly notch out areas on both brackets to get them to properly fit and seat, but they were fine once I did and I only needed to take about 1/8th to 1/4th an inch at most. The brackets that hold the front of the skid are a VERY tight fit around the engine mounts and brackets, and of course subject to manufacturing variations. The only other install issues were with the engine/oil skid. ![]() Was concerned at first the rivet nut might not hold up to the necessary torque, but it did and all is good. Had to cut the spinning bolt out and install a rivet nut replacement. Due entirely to my own fault, impatience, and not paying enough attention, I managed to accidentally break off one of the interior frame mounting nuts (good grief, Charlie Brown!!). ![]() The fuel skid is necessarily a very tight fit, so it takes some work to get in place and aligned. It replaces the factory skid, which is what holds the fuel tank in place, so you have to be very careful when dropping the tank and work ratchet straps into the process to hold the tank up. In hindsight I would highly recommend going somewhere with access to a lift, especially for the fuel tank skid. I did this myself, at home on the garage floor, with jacks, ratchets straps and axel stands. The install was pretty straightforward for the most part and I only had a couple minor issues (and one more moderate of my own making) with the install. ![]() Well, took a couple weeks longer than planned to get around to this install, but other than the Control Arm Skids and Track Bar Brace I still need to get to I now have everything installed including Rusty’s Muffler, 7-Pin, Fuel Tank, Transfer Case, and Enigine/Oil Skids. ![]()
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